What can I eat as a vegan in Bangkok?

Som tam is the classic answer but I'd actually steer you toward the jay stalls in Chinatown around Yaowarat Road at night. The fried mushroom "oysters" and the mock duck in five-spice sauce are proper meals, not afterthoughts, and they're dirt cheap, like 40-60 baht a plate. Try the ones near Wat Mangkon, they've been doing this for decades and the queues tell you everything.

Another thing that rarely gets mentioned is that Thai Buddhist holidays, especially during the Vegetarian Festival in October, turn the whole city into a vegan paradise. Street stalls put out yellow flags everywhere and even 7-Eleven stocks jay versions of instant noodles and snacks, so if you time your trip right you won't have to think twice. Outside that window, your best breakfast move is khao tom (rice soup) from a morning market stall, just ask for it with tofu and no meat stock, they'll usually have a veggie version simmering anyway.

For sit-down places, I'd skip the trendy spots and hit up Jay Fai's neighborhood, not her famous crab omelette place which is useless for you, but the smaller family-run jay restaurants on Maha Chai Road. They do a killer green curry with young jackfruit that has the texture of pork, and they don't water down the spice level for tourists. Also, carry a small Thai phrase card with "kin je" on it, because

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If you're around the Ari or Phra Khanong areas, check out the "baan jay" home-style stalls, the ones that look like someone's garage with a few plastic tables out front. They don't have flashy signs, but if you see steam rising from big pots and a handwritten board in Thai, that's your cue. The khao phat je with mock chicken and the gaeng kiew wan with young coconut flesh are proper comfort food, and you'll often pay under 50 baht with a bowl of free soup on the side.

One thing that trips up new vegans here is the assumption that "vegetable" dishes are safe. Things like pad pak boong fai daeng (morning glory) usually get a splash of oyster sauce, so always say "mai sai nam man hoi" (no oyster sauce) in addition to the fish sauce request. It's a mouthful, but Thai vendors respect the specificity.

For a sweet fix that's genuinely plant-based, look for the old-school kanom krok stalls, the coconut rice pancakes cooked in those cast iron molds. Most versions have egg, but the jay ones swap in rice flour and they're incredible fresh off the griddle. Ask for "kanom krok je" and you'll see them nod. Pair it with fresh young coconut from the same cart and you've got a snack that beats any packaged vegan bar.

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Good to see you're planning ahead, because the hardest part of being vegan in Bangkok isn't finding food, it's avoiding the hidden fish sauce in everything. One thing that hasn't come up yet is the vegetarian food counter at MBK Center's food court, sixth floor. It's a proper jay operation with steam trays of curries, stir-fried greens, and mock meats, and you just point at what you want, no Thai needed. A plate with rice and three dishes runs about 60 baht.

If you're up for an adventure, take the BTS to Wongwian Yai and walk around the market there. The jay stalls cluster near the railway station and they do this incredible mieng kham je, which is betel leaves with roasted coconut, lime, ginger, and a sweet peanut sauce you wrap yourself. It's a hands-on snack that tourists rarely get to try because the regular version usually has dried shrimp.

For the heat factor, don't be shy about asking for "pet noi" (a little spicy) at jay places. They tend to assume farang want it mild, but the chili is what makes the mock duck and mushroom dishes sing. And if you get overwhelmed by the language barrier, just show the vendor the Thai script for "mai sai sat" (no animal products) on your phone, that covers eggs and dairy too, which is more than the fish sauce phrase alone does.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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