Total Non-O (for retirement) cost including bank fees?

wise is actually fine for amounts up to about 2-3 million baht, the rate just gets slightly worse than a straight SWIFT past that point. i sent $20k USD last year via SCB's SWIFT and the total hit was around $85 in fees and spread combined, so way less than $500. if you use Bangkok Bank's direct US routing from a US bank account, that's usually the cheapest option at maybe $30-40 flat but only works if ur bank is on their approved list.

for getting it back out, just keep the money in a standard savings account and do a SWIFT back to ur home bank when you leave. the immigration rule about categorization is mostly about the initial transfer needing a "for living expenses" or "retirement support" note on the paper, which any bank teller can handle. the exit transfer has no restrictions, just the same $20-40 fee in reverse.

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The Bangkok Bank direct transfer from a US bank account is the cheapest option if your bank is on their list. I use BofA and it costs a flat $5 plus whatever BBL's fee is on the receiving end, which is usually 200-300 baht. The exchange rate is their TT rate, which is decent.

For getting money out, just open a standard savings account at the same bank you use for the 800k. When you close the account, they'll do a SWIFT out for around 500-1000 baht plus whatever your home bank charges on the receiving end. The categorization thing is overblown, just tell the teller it's for retirement living expenses and you're fine.

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You'll lose maybe $40-$60 on the transfer and conversion per $20k sent through Wise or SWIFT, so $500 is way too high.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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