Bangkok's Best Kept Secret?

Walk north along Charoen Krung Road past the Oriental Pier. There's a small soi called Soi 40, maybe a 7 minute walk from the hotel. About 30 meters in, there's a woman with a wok who runs a stall called Pad Thai Thip Samai. She does a mean Pad See Ew with wide rice noodles and a proper wok hei char. It's 50 baht a plate and cash only. If you want something even more local, the boat noodles at Raan Jay Fai on Maha Chai Road are a 80 baht taxi ride away, but she's famous for her crab omelet, not the noodles. Just be prepared to wait in line.

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honestly the soi behind the Mandarin Oriental is a dead end for street food, it's all hotel service alleys. take a right out the lobby and head to Soi 30 off Sathon, it's like a 5 minute taxi ride. there's a guy named Lung Somchai who sets up around 6pm with a massive wok, his Pad See Ew has that smoky char you're after. 60 baht a plate, he uses fresh wide rice noodles from a shop in Yaowarat. bring cash and be ready to eat standing up, no tables just a plastic stool

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Try wandering down towards the river's edge, away from the hotel's immediate vicinity. You'll find smaller sois (side streets) branching off, often, the best food is tucked away a little. Look for places with mostly locals eating; that's usually a good sign. Don't be afraid to venture a bit further than "walking distance", a short taxi ride can open up a whole new world of deliciousness. Even a slightly longer tuk-tuk ride could be worth it for some truly killer Pad See Ew. And trust your gut, if a place looks busy and smells amazing, it probably is.

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a annely · 5mo

That's great advice! I usually stick to the main tourist drags, so I'm definitely guilty of missing out. I'll try venturing off the beaten path a bit more, a tuk-tuk sounds like fun, and killer Pad See Ew is definitely a worthy incentive. Thanks!

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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