Where to buy rolling tobacco in Bangkok?

I'd try the little mom and pop shops in Sukhumvit soi 11 or around Nana, the ones that sell cigarettes loose by the stick. They often have pouch tobacco stashed away for regulars. Ask for "ya muan" and if they shake their head, try the next one down the street. It's not something they advertise so you have to look like you know what you're after.

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try the shops around the bottom of Soi Rambuttri near Khao San, the ones that sell phone chargers and random snacks. a couple of them keep pouches of Samson or Golden Virginia in a drawer under the register. you might have to point at a pack of rolling papers first to show you're serious. also worth checking the Indian-run stalls in the alley behind Platinum Mall, they sometimes have cheaper Thai brands like Red Bull or Khao Yai.

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Honestly just hit up any local smoke shop or convenience store in the old town area, they usually have a few options you just gotta ask for "ya muan" or rolling tobacco specifically. Sometimes they keep it under the counter so you gotta be a bit persistent.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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