In which park can I find people playing chess?

ngl you might have better luck at santiphap park, it's smaller and quieter than the main ones. there's a group of older guys who play near the entrance on sri ayutthaya road, usually around 5pm when it cools down a bit. they're pretty welcoming if you just stand and watch for a few minutes first, and they'll prob let you hop in for a game or two. just a heads up they play by thai rules so the queen doesn't move as far, takes a sec to adjust

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if you're looking for a more low-key spot than the big parks, try saranrom park near the grand palace. there's a small group of older guys who play on the concrete tables by the fountain, usually from late morning until the heat gets bad. it's less crowded than lumpini so they're more likely to let you join in, just bring your own board since they don't always have spares. the vibe is pretty chill and they speak some english if you're not fluent in thai

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honestly i'd try benjakitti park instead of lumpini, way less tourists and the old guys are super chill about letting randoms sit in. there's a shaded area near the ratchadaphisek entrance where a few boards get set up around 4pm, mostly thai chess club retirees who've been playing since the 80s. just bring a small bottle of cha yen as a peace offering and they'll warm up to you quick

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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