Where can I buy seitan?

tbh the chinese vegetarian shops in yaowarat are ur best bet but not the ones ppl usually name. there's a tiny shop on trok issaranuphap (the alley off yaowarat near the gold shops) that sells fresh mock gluten by weight, like 100b for a bag, they just call it "miàn jīn" not seitan. go in the morning before 10am, after that it's gone. also radna yod pak in phra nakhon does frozen versions if u ask at the counter

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the word youre looking for at wet markets is "mian jin" but the fresh kind is rare. what most thais actually eat is "yong" or mock duck, canned stuff from Chaokoh or the brands at Tops. its wheat gluten too just pressed and seasoned differently. check the canned veg aisle not the vegan fridge section.

if u want to make it yourself its stupid easy. just wash dough under water until the starch runs out. 2kg of bread flour at Big C is like 60b and makes a decent batch. takes 20 min of kneading and rinsing.

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if u can eat at restaurants instead of cooking, Broccoli Revolution does a decent seitan satay but honestly Veganerie in EmQuartier is more consistent. For buying raw, i've had luck ordering from a shop on Shopee called Plant Based BKK, they restock every couple weeks and ship frozen. Also worth asking at the Chinese vegetarian places around Yaowarat during kin jay, some of them make mock wheat gluten fresh

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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