Hotels or Airbnbs? Which one is better to live around Phaya Thai/Asok area?

For what you're describing, a service apartment is definitely the better call. Most hotels around Asok, especially the ones near Terminal 21, will give you trouble about bringing guests back after 10pm and smoking on the balcony. I rented a place at The Residence on Phra Athit for a while and the front desk didn't care about visitors as long as you weren't being loud in the hallways. Phaya Thai has some older condo buildings with rent-by-month options that are more relaxed about smoking than the newer hotel towers.

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If you're planning to have people over and smoke, a service apartment is the way to go in either area. Hotels in Phaya Thai and Asok are strict about guests past a certain hour and most have no-smoking policies that they actually enforce. I've stayed at the Aspira on Sukhumvit 21 and it was fine for having a couple friends crash, but check if they have a balcony for smoking because the hallway alarms are sensitive. Just keep in mind that service apartments usually ask for a month minimum, so if you're only in town for a week or two you might have to settle for a hotel and find a bar that allows smoking.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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