There's a lot of police sirens. Is something kicking off in town ?

It is probably just the royal procession practice, they have been doing those a lot lately around Ratchadamnoen Avenue. That route gets sirens going constantly during the evening hours when they are rehearsing. You can usually tell because it will be a steady stream of motorcycle outriders rather than just one or two cars. If it sounds more spread out, could just be a protest convoy they are escorting.

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honestly it's prob just the usual traffic police escorts for VIPs or diplomats, happens all the time around here. if you're near sukhumvit it could be the bikes clearing a path for some big shot. nothing to worry about unless you hear gunshots or something, which is pretty rare

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if you're near the government buildings on dinso road, it might be the senate session letting out, they always have a full escort for the bigwigs. or could be a fire truck responding to something small, happens all the time in the older sois where the wiring gets sparky. either way, grab a beer at a street stall and watch it go by, it's just bangkok being bangkok

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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