Did I just see skinned rats for sale?

You weren't seeing things, those were rats. They're a real thing in Khlong Toei, usually sold to folks who make a spicy grilled skewer or a jungle curry with them. It's not a tourist menu item, more of a rural Isaan taste that's migrated into the city. The market's got a reputation for being intense, but if you want to wash the image out, walk over to the food court upstairs and get a plate of pad see ew from the old lady with the wok station, it's cheap and it'll ground you.

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yeah that's khlong toei for you, it's raw. those were almost certainly rats, not squirrels. people do eat them here, usually grilled or in a spicy curry, but it's more of a working class thing. if you're brave, the ones from the wet market are at least fresh, but i'd skip it and grab some khao moo dang from a stall instead. that alley's also where they sell the live frogs and turtles, so you kinda get used to the chaos after a while.

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Yes, those were rats. Khlong Toei is one of the few places in Bangkok where you'll still see them openly, usually sold to people from Isaan who make a laap or a grilled skewer. It's not common in most markets these days, so it catches everyone off guard the first time. If you want to shake the image, head to the back of the market near the vegetable stalls, there's a tiny coffee cart that does a decent iced black coffee for 20 baht, and you can watch the chaos from a safe distance.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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