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want to meet at fmd_good Old Bell
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Pahurat Soi 3, second shop past the gold shops on the left, the aunty there quotes by the thaan and won't budge for tourists, which is exactly what you want.
Go early, aunty closes after lunch
she still keeps the good Thai silk behind the counter, so ask for it by name or you'll get teh export stuff
for suits skip the silk anyway & ask her for the wool blends by the thaan, she keeps those on the back shelf
Ask her to show the English wool bolts rather than the Italian-labeled ones, the markup on those is where the overcharging actually happens.
The "Italian" bolts are often relabeled Suphanburi mill goods, so check the selvedge print before you commit. Real English cloth runs 350 to 500 baht per thaan more but holds a crease through Bangkok heat.
Real English cloth has a woven selvedge label u can feel, the fakes print it on and it peels after a wash. Check the reverse side of the bolt too, mills stamp the weave there. Prices shift with the pound so recheck before u commit
yeah that's the one, but bring cash. her daughter runs the stall some afternoons and won't do the same price, so if the quote sounds high just come back the next morning.
her neighbour two doors down has the same wool for less but only sells full bolts so bring a friend to split it
bring a measuring tape tho, her 'farang size' is generous
best som tam in Bangkok? Krua Dok Mai Kao 2026
Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.
for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.
honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush
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