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Songthaews run along the main road to Mae Ramphueng but they thin out after 5pm, so plan your return. For quieter water I'd skip the main strip and take a boat to Ko Samet instead. No car needed if you base near Ban Phe.
yeah the boat thing is right but book the speedboat from the pier directly, agencies tack on 200 baht. Also Hat Sai Kaew gets packed on weekends so aim for Ao Phai if u want space.
Ao Cho, quieter and the pier drops you right there
Bungalow prices at Ao Cho double in high season, and the beach itself is only about 200 meters long, so book ahead.
true, but the pier gate closes around 6 so catch the last boat back or you're stuck paying for a private one
Last return around 5:30, not 6.
If you're heading over on a weekend, book a room in advance since the good spots fill up fast.
Worth the extra baht, boats fill up by nine.
Good call on the agencies, but Ao Phai's bar noise runs till 2am on saturdays so bring earplugs or pick the north end.
the seafood shacks past the main drag are the real reason to base there
best som tam in Bangkok? Krua Dok Mai Kao 2026
Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.
for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.
honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush
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