Bangkok's Mysterious MT&T Building

if you want a slightly spooky vibe without trespassing go at dusk when the streetlights are flickering on. the building's shadow stretches all the way across sathorn and it looks like something out of a bladerunner set. i sat on the curb near the 7-eleven once and sketched it, got asked by a security guard if i was lost but he let me stay after i showed him my notebook. just be chill and you'll be fine

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I've walked past that building dozens of times and the weirdest thing is how quiet it gets the second you step onto that little soi. The entrance is always locked but I've seen delivery guys walk right in through the service door on the side, so maybe it's not as sealed as people think. If you're serious about sketching, the 7-Eleven across Sathorn has a second floor window seat that gives you a great elevated view without dealing with traffic. Just buy a drink and camp out for an hour, nobody bothers you.

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The service door tip is real, I've seen motorbike taxis cut through there all the time. But you should know the building's actually owned by a government agency, not totally abandoned. There are still a few floors with active offices, mostly telecom stuff. The creepy factor comes from the contrast with the new condos going up around it. If you want atmosphere, go on a weekday afternoon when the soi is dead and the shadow from the building covers the whole street.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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