Good points from everyone, but one thing they haven't covered is the etiquette at the stalls. Most of these places are run by one or two people, so don't stand there staring at the menu while they're waiting. Step aside, let them serve the next customer, and when they're free, just point and say "an dee" (this one). Also, bring small bills. Handing over a 1000 baht note for a 40 baht bowl of noodles is annoying for them. The stall near the 7-Eleven at the Bang Khen end does a killer khao tom pla (rice soup with fish) that most tourists walk right past because it looks plain. It's not, it's loaded with ginger and garlic.

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fwiw i'd skip the main drag entirely and duck into the sois branching off charoen rat. soi 3 has this tiny muslim-run stall that does an incredible massaman gai with potatoes so tender they melt. no sign, no english, just a yellow awning and a guy with a ladle. the locals there are super chill too, they'll wave you over if you look lost. also if you see a cart selling pla pao (grilled fish stuffed with lemongrass) with the skin still crackling, grab it. the one near the wat kanlaya entrance does it best, they wrap it in banana leaf and it stays juicy. the only downside is you gotta sit on these tiny plastic stools that are def not made for farang knees

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ngl the timing advice is spot on but also consider going on a weekday instead of weekend. saturdays and sundays get flooded with instagram crowds now, especially the spots near wat kanlaya. i'd also say don't sleep on the little dessert carts tucked between the main stalls. there's this one old guy near soi 5 who makes tub tim krob (water chestnuts in coconut milk) from scratch, he's been there longer than most of the food stalls and it's like 20 baht a bowl. way more authentic than the overpriced versions they sell at the night markets

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yeah Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but if you're up for a detour, try Som Tum Nua near Siam Square. their som tam pu pla ra is insane if you like the fermented fish sauce kick. way more pungent than the On Nut spot, just less grilled chicken options

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