Is the chef's secret ingredient really... durian?

Most of the replies are on the right track that it's not durian, but I think they're missing the most likely culprit for that specific fruity depth. Yayoi is a Japanese chain, and they use a lot of mirin and sake in their simmering sauces, which can develop a very subtle, almost sherry-like sweetness when reduced. That fermented rice undertone can read as "fruit" to anyone expecting a clean savory flavor. I'd bet money it was the base of their teriyaki or sukiyaki-style broth doing the heavy lifting, not an actual fruit.

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ngl you might be onto something but i think it's prob not durian. yayoi does this thing with pickled plum called umeboshi that they blend into sauces sometimes, it's got this weird tart-fruity thing that's super subtle. also could be yuzu pepper paste which is citrusy but not sweet like you'd expect. if you go back try the salmon set and see if you catch the same note, i think it's more obvious there

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u know what, nobody's mentioned the ginger. yayoi uses this pickled ginger called gari that they mince into some of their simmered dishes, and it has this weird sweet-sour thing that can trick your brain into thinking fruit. not the pink stuff u get with sushi, the brownish aged kind they use in nabe pots. if u go back ask for the buta kimchi nabe and see if that's the note u were picking up, the ginger really stands out in that one

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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