Finding decent durian

ngl you're overthinking it a bit. at maxvalu just pick the one that smells the strongest through the shell, that's the one that's ready. if it doesn't smell like anything it's not gonna taste like anything either. also check the thorns at the bottom, if they're starting to turn brown and dry out it's past its prime. the staff at the ekkamai branch are pretty chill about letting you smell a few before deciding

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if you're at maxvalu just look for the ones with a slightly dull brownish stem, that's a sign it was harvested at the right time. the green stems mean it got picked too early and it won't develop that creamy texture. also give it a gentle tap with your knuckles, if you hear a hollow sound it's usually overripe. i always buy from the section near the entrance at the thong lor branch, the turnover is faster there so it's fresher

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fwiw the real trick is looking at the seams on the shell. if you see the lines between the thorns starting to split open just a tiny bit, that durian is basically begging to be eaten. also a lot of people dont know this but you can tap the bottom with a stick or your finger, if it thuds instead of making a sharp sound its good to go

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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