Area with local arts and crafts shops?

You might like the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, it's right at the Siam BTS stop. The upper floors have small artist-run shops selling actual handmade prints, postcards, and accessories, much more local than the mall stuff. For bags specifically, check out the small designer stalls at Siam Square Soi 3 and 5, there are a few shops there run by local textile artists that do interesting handwoven pieces.

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skip mbk tbh, it's mostly knockoffs and phone cases. check out the bangkok art and culture centre instead, it's right by siam and has a bunch of small artist-run shops on the upper floors with actual handmade prints and zines.

for the night markets, the train night market ratchada is fine but it's more vintage junk than crafts. if you want handmade bags and stuff, head to the weekend market at chatuchak but stick to section 7 and 8, that's where the local designers set up.

also there's a tiny spot called talad rot fai srinakarin that has a few craft stalls mixed with the antiques, less touristy than the big ones and open thurs-sun evenings.

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Chatuchak Weekend Market. Seriously, that place is a maze of awesome crafts. You'll find everything from ridiculously intricate wood carvings to questionable-but-fascinating Buddha statues. Prepare to haggle.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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