Is Bangkok that bike unfriendly?

The real issue isn't the main roads, it's that even the small soi are unpredictable. You'll have motorbikes coming the wrong way, dogs sleeping in the middle, and sudden potholes that appear overnight. I've seen a few people bike around Sukhumvit 71 and the side streets off Ekkamai, but you have to be hyper alert even there. Walking your bike on the sidewalk is often slower than just taking a taxi, unfortunately.

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honestly its not as bad as people make it sound if u pick the right areas. theres a decent lil bike community around Bang Krachao, that green island across the river, its basically all bike paths and no cars. also early morning rides along the Chao Phraya riverfront before 7am are pretty chill, theres a stretch from Tha Tien to Wat Pho thats smooth enough. just avoid anything near Victory Monument or Asoke during rush hour, that's suicide on two wheels

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Sidewalks in Bangkok are a mess, you'll be dodging vendors and parked scooters more than cars.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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