Any recommendations for night markets ?

If you're up for crossing the river, Khlong Lat Mayom is technically a floating market but it runs into the evening on weekends and the food is way better than most night markets. Get the pla pao (salt crusted grilled fish) and the hoy tod, sit by the canal. It's out past Taling Chan, so grab a taxi from Bang Wa BTS, maybe 15 min. Only thing is it's mostly a weekend thing and wraps by like 8 or 9, so go early for dinner rather than late.

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Jodd Fairs Rama 9 is worth a look if you're staying anywhere near the MRT line, it's a short walk from Phra Ram 9 station. The portion sizes run small so you end up ordering from four or five stalls, which is kind of the point. Go hungry and skip the seafood, the grilled pork skewers and the larb stalls are where it's at.

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Talad Rot Fai Srinakarin is the one I'd pick, behind Seacon Square. It's mostly locals, tons of vintage stalls and cheap eats, and the food court out back does solid som tam and grilled seafood. Gets going around 6pm and stays busy till midnight, best reached by taxi since the BTS doesn't quite get you there.

If you want something closer to the river, Asiatique is more polished but pricier. Srinakarin's teh better call for actual dinner plus browsing.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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