Reputable gold shop?

honestly check out Aurora Gold and Gems on Silom Road. they carry heavier 23k pieces with more modern cuts, not the usual floral stuff. ask for the cuban links, they have a few that use a proper box clasp instead of the lobster ones. prices are per gram plus making charge, around 50-80 baht per gram over spot which is standard for that style.

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You might want to try Hua Seng Heng in Yaowarat. They're one of the older shops down there and they do carry some 23k pieces with simpler designs, more like the solid link styles you'd see in the US. The box clasp is standard on their heavier chains, just ask for the "luk tang" style and they'll know what you mean. They're on the corner of Charoen Krung and Yaowarat Road, easy to spot with the green sign.

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Chin Hua Nam on Charoen Krung Soi 16 is worth a look if you want something that doesn't scream "I bought this at a tourist market." They do a lot of custom work and can make you a 23k Cuban with a proper box clasp, just bring a photo of what you want. The making charge there tends to be on the higher side, closer to 100 baht per gram, but the finish is noticeably cleaner than the mass-produced stuff.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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