Tai chi/martial arts in parks?

For Lumpini specifically, the tai chi crowd clusters near the clock tower by the Silom entrance and along the paved loop by the big sala near gate 4, usually 5:30 to 7am before the heat and traffic pick up. Walk the loop once around 6am and you'll spot them, the groups are pretty territorial about their spots so the same faces show up daily.

One thing worth knowing: a lot of these are informal kru-led groups where you just show up and join, no fee, though people usually chip in for the teacher. If you want something more structured, the Thai-Chinese community around Yaowarat has qi gong sessions tied to some of the shrines, and Wat Mangkon area folks can point you toward them if you ask around.

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chatuchak is also decent on weekday mornings around 6 near the northern gate, saw a small qi gong group there before. honestly the easiest way is just show up early and ask, most of these crews are chill about new people

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Lumpini is doable but honestly Benjasiri park (right next to Emporium, soi 24 side) is easier for this. There's a tai chi crew that meets near the lake on the Sukhumvit side around 6 to 6:30am, mostly older Thai folks but a couple speak English and they're welcoming. Qi gong is more scattered, I've seen a small group by the exercise area at Chatuchak park on weekends too. If you want structured classes in English, look up the tai chi offerings at the Chinese temple on Charoen Krung or some of the health clubs in Silom, they run morning sessions.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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