Any jewelers that can customize Watches? (Dial, casing)

In Bangkok, specialized watch modding is a bit niche but there are a few spots. You should check out Watchmodding Bangkok near Samyan, they do dial swaps and case modifications with decent turnaround times. For full custom casing you might need to go through one of the shops in MBK Center's watch repair area, but expect to pay a premium and negotiate the price upfront.

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second this, 'we dial thailand' is the active one

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MBK Center has a couple of shops on the fourth floor that will take a crack at custom dial work but you need to bring your own reference photos.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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