Anyone know a good cobbler who doesn't charge western prices in bangkok I need my cowboy boots resoled in leather?

Try the shops around Soi Rangnam near Victory Monument, there's a cluster of old-school repair stalls under the awnings that mostly serve locals. I had a pair of work boots resoled there for about 400 baht, and they used proper leather, not that glued-on fake stuff. Ask for the guy with the wooden sign that just says "รองเท้า" and a pile of soles outside, he's been there for years. For cowboy boots specifically, you might need to wait a few days since they'll hand-stitch the welt, but it's still a fraction of what you'd pay at a mall repair counter.

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honestly skip the tourist traps near Sukhumvit, those places quote 1500+ baht the second they see a foreigner. head to the weekend market at Chatuchak, section 14, there's a cobbler tucked behind the vintage clothes stalls who does custom work for the Thai cowboy crowd, they actually ride. he resoled my Frye boots with real veg-tan leather for 600 baht and picked the thread color to match, took two trips but the stitch line is cleaner than the original. just go early, like 9am, before the heat hits and he gets swamped.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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