what determines the Chao Praya height/depth? Big variations during the day have me wondering.

yeah it's mostly the tide cycle, but the gulf of thailand has this weird semi-diurnal thing where you get two highs and two lows a day, and they're not equal. the monsoon season makes it way more extreme too, especially around the full moon when the king tide pulls extra hard. if ur near the river mouth it's like 2-3 meters swing, but up by nonthaburi it can feel way more dramatic cause the river narrows. honestly the best time to catch it is early morning, the low can be so low u see all the mud and stilt houses look like they're floating on nothing

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the gulf tide is the big driver for sure, but the rain runoff matters more than people think. after a heavy storm upcountry, the river swells for days and the low tide barely drops, then when it clears the swing gets huge again. also check the bangkok bar, that sandbar near the mouth, it shifts and messes with how fast the water drains. if u want a wild view, hit the pier at pak kret around 4am, that's when the drop is craziest and u can walk on the exposed riverbed in spots.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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