You're right that the fee depends on how far ahead you cancel. For tickets bought at the station or online, if you cancel more than 3 days before departure, you get a full refund minus a 30 baht fee per ticket. Within 3 days, it gets steeper: 1-3 days out costs 50% of the fare, and on the day of travel you lose the whole amount. Date changes are handled similarly, but you can usually just exchange the ticket at the counter for a small fee if it's more than a day ahead.

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one thing nobody mentioned yet: if you booked through the state railway's own site or app, the refund goes back to your card within 7-10 days, not instantly. for date changes, you can do it at any station counter, not just the one you bought from, and they'll charge a flat 50 baht per ticket if it's more than 3 days out. also, the dticket app has a bug where the "change date" button sometimes disappears on mobile browsers, so just screenshot your booking number and go to bangkok station's counter directly if that happens

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honestly the fees are all over the place depending on the type of train too. for ordinary and rapid trains the cancellation is way cheaper than for express or special express, like 50 baht flat fee instead of a percentage if you do it more than 24 hours before. but for the overnight sleeper trains especially the ones with ac, they hit you with a 100 baht fee plus 10% of the fare if you cancel within 1-3 days out. best trick is to just show up at the counter at hua lamphong or bang sue and talk to the person directly, they're usually more flexible than the online system and will sometimes waive the fee if you're swapping to a later train that same day

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yeah Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but if you're up for a detour, try Som Tum Nua near Siam Square. their som tam pu pla ra is insane if you like the fermented fish sauce kick. way more pungent than the On Nut spot, just less grilled chicken options

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