Where to get a proper massage in Bangkok?

for the back pain specifically try ruen nuad mass studio in ekkamai, it's in an old wooden house and the therapists are trained in actual therapeutic techniques not just tourist stuff. about 400-500 baht for an hour of thai massage and they won't try to upsell u anything sketchy. also wat pho's massage school near the temple is solid if u want the most legit option, just go to their official center not the random tables outside the gates

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if u want proper therapeutic stuff without the nonsense try lek massage in ari, they do a mean back treatment and it's like 300 baht for an hour. the ladies there are older and real no-nonsense types, no happy ending crap just fixing ur spine

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health land is fine for a basic thai massage without the extras just go to a legit chain place not a random soi shop

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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