Last weekend in Bangkok, what do?

Since you already know the city and the heat is getting to you, try a different approach. Head to the basement of Terminal 21 at Asok and ride the MRT just one stop to Lumphini. The park has shaded paths and you can rent a paddle boat on the lake for 40 baht, the breeze off the water actually helps. For tonight, skip the rooftop bars and try Tep Bar on Soi Nana in Chinatown, it's an old shophouse with high ceilings and fans that keep the air moving, plus they serve cold local craft beer and ya dong cocktails. Tomorrow, take the BTS to Wongwian Yai and walk through the Talad Phlu market area, it's mostly covered and the grilled seafood at the street stalls is some of the best in the city without the tourist markup.

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If you want to beat the heat but still be out and about, head to one of the bigger malls like CentralWorld or Siam Paragon. They've got these huge air-conditioned atriums where you can just wander around, plus the food courts are cheap and solid. For tonight, the rooftop bars at places like Octave or Above Eleven have a decent breeze that makes the humidity bearable, and the views of the city at night are worth the slightly pricier drink. Tomorrow morning, hit up the Or Tor Kor market near Chatuchak before it gets too brutal. The fresh fruit and grilled meats there are way better than what you find on the street and the covered sections keep the sun off.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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