Which options are there to do a budhist retreat or temp ordain as a monk in Bangkok?

yeah totally possible, just depends on what you're after. wat mahathat near the grand palace does short ordinations through their vipassana program, usually 3-15 days, you stay in the temple grounds and follow the schedule. it's not super strict compared to forest monasteries but it's legit.

for something more serious, wat paknam bhasicharoen has longer retreat options and their meditation is more structured. you'd need to speak thai or have a translator for most of it though. the cost is basically zero, they just ask for a donation at the end.

if you want the full monk experience for a month, you have to go through the proper government channels and find a temple that sponsors temporary ordination. suan mokkh in chaiya is the famous one but that's not bangkok. inside the city your best bet is wat bowonniwet near khao san, they do it but you need to plan ahead.

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It's definitely possible, though the logistics depend on how structured you want the experience to be. For a short-term ordination without leaving the city, Wat Thepsirin near Hua Lamphong station is worth checking out. They have a program where you can ordain for around 15 days, and they're used to handling foreigners, so language isn't as much of a barrier there compared to some other temples.

If you're after more of a work-oriented retreat rather than full monkhood, Suan Mokkh Bangkok (a branch of the famous forest monastery) runs occasional 10-day silent retreats with meditation and physical labor like sweeping or cleaning. They're donation-based and usually fill up fast, so you'd want to book a month ahead.

For a month-long ordination, you'll need to get a Non-Immigrant O visa specifically for religious purposes, which means coordinating with the temple to issue an invitation letter. Wat Bowonniwet handles this but it's a slow process, so start reaching out to their international office at least two months before you plan to do it.

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another option is wat saket on boromphiman road, the one with the golden mountain. they don't push ordination much but they have a dhamma study program for foreigners that includes daily meditation and alms rounds, more like a structured lay retreat than full robes. you stay in their guest quarters for a few weeks, help with temple chores, and it's free aside from food costs. the vibe is relaxed, not many tourists know about it.

for a real ordination, check with the national office of buddhism on rattanakosin island. they handle the paperwork for foreign monks and can point you to temples that accept short-term candidates. you'll need a passport, health cert, and two photos, plus a letter from your home temple if you've done it before. the process takes a few days at most once you find a sponsor temple.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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