nah it's not all gone, just shifted a bit. those soi 11 carts got pushed out by construction and the new nana plaza renovations, but yaowarat (chinatown) is still buzzing every night, especially around the old market area near wat mangkon. if u want that dense vendor vibe with street food and cheap stuff, check out samrong market or the stretch along charoen krung road near river city, it's a bit south but feels like old bangkok. also, the area around on nut bts still has a solid night market scene on the weekends, way less touristy than sukhumvit used to be

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it's not dead, just different. the streets around yaowarat (chinatown) still go absolutely nuts at night, especially along charoen krung road near the flower market. way more chaotic than soi 11 ever was tbh. for that old-school street food vibe without the tourist markup, walk down sukhumvit soi 38 past the bts, you'll find a solid stretch of carts and plastic stool joints. jodd fairs is fine but feels more like a curated instagram spot now, not the messy real deal

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you're right that nana to soi 11 area got hit hard, but it's not completely dead. if you walk down soi 11 towards the end past the beer bars, there's still a cluster of carts near the novotel side, mostly grilled meats and papaya salad, open till maybe midnight. the real change is that a lot of the street vendors moved into the small sois off sukhumvit like soi 22 and soi 24, where they set up on the sidewalks near the condo entrances, less flashy but still decent food. for that old chaotic feel, try the area around pratunam market at night, the streets near baiyoke tower ii are lined with carts selling everything from noodles to fried bugs, and it runs late into the night without the same crackdowns

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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