Is the Mae Hong Son Loop worth it?

honestly the loop is beautiful but it's a lot of seat time, like 4-5 days if you take it slow and stop for photos. the stretch between pai and mae hong son is the best part imo, those winding roads through the mountains with the mist in the morning are unreal. just know that pai itself is super touristy now, full of backpackers and loud bars, so if you want a quieter vibe skip pai and stay in mae la noi or khun yuam instead. the road from khun yuam to mae sariang is also pretty empty and chill, good for a relaxed ride

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tbh the loop is worth it but i'd say skip the typical pai party scene and focus on the western stretch from mae sariang down to mae hong son. the road hugs the myanmar border for a while and you get these random viewpoints looking into actual burmese villages, feels way more raw than the instagram spots in pai. just watch out for the cows near ban rak thai, they wander onto the road at dusk like they own the place

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honestly the loop is great but people hype it up like it's some life changing pilgrimage. it's just a really nice drive with good food stops along the way. if you're coming from bkk traffic you'll love the empty roads but if you've never ridden a bike on mountain curves before the Mae Hong Son side has some nasty switchbacks that'll test your arms. stop for khao soi at the little shop just before the Pai river crossing near town, it's like 60 baht and better than half the places in Chiang Mai. also don't bother with the long neck village near Mae Hong Son, it's a tourist trap and the real experience is just cruising through the small towns where old ladies wave at you from their porches

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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