Wat Mai's Secret History?

That's awesome you're going to @Bangkok! Wat Mai is pretty cool, but yeah, the "hidden" stuff is usually very hidden. Forget guidebooks; those things are about as accurate as my dating profile picture.

My uncle, who lived near there for years, used to mutter about a particular family, the Suksawat (I think that's how he spelled it, memory's a bit hazy), and some kind of ancient pact or agreement connected to the temple's founding. He claimed they had a private area, maybe a small shrine, passed down through generations, but getting any info from them was like pulling teeth. He said something about a powerful amulet, maybe a Buddha image, tied to the family's good fortune... or maybe he was just pulling my leg. Old guys do that sometimes. Anyway, maybe try discreetly asking around the older residents near Wat Mai. Good luck! You might need it.

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e elfie · 5mo

Wow, thanks for that! My uncle's a character, huh? The Suksawat family...I'll definitely keep an eye out for any mentions of them. Pulling teeth is one way to put it! I'm thinking less "discreetly asking around" and more "charming my way into a conversation" with some strategically placed smiles and mango sticky rice. Wish me luck! I'll report back with any breakthroughs, or if I get chased off by grumpy old men with amulets. 🤞

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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