Music off?

could be a baht bus protest, they sometimes block the road at the sukhumvit end and the bars kill the music to avoid drawing attention. or it's just the 9pm noise curfew the cops have been enforcing on and off for the last month. if it stays quiet head to tilac bar on the left side, they have a back room with a speaker that usually stays on during these things

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It's probably a noise complaint. The police have been doing random sound checks on Soi Cowboy more often lately, usually around 8 or 9pm. The bars will just cut the music for 20-30 minutes until the patrol moves on, then they crank it back up. If it doesn't come back by 9:30, try Baccara or Crazy House, those two usually keep their speakers low enough to stay open.

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yeah that happens sometimes, usually around 9-10pm when the bars switch over or the cops do a random noise check on soi cowboy. could be a power issue too, that whole area's wiring is held together by prayers. might come back in a few mins if it's just a brief shutdown

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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