good bkk drains?

ngl drains in bkk are a whole different beast. the ones along Khlong Toei near the port are pretty accessible but be ready for serious smell and rats. If u want something cleaner try the drainage canals behind Rama 9 soi 17, less traffic but still gives u that underground vibe. just watch out for the water level after rain, it rises fast and nobody wants to be stuck in a flooded drain at 3am

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honestly if you want something more chill check out the drainage under the old city moat near Ratchadamnoen Klang, it's surprisingly clean for a drain and the brickwork is pretty old school. just go early morning before the street vendors start dumping their wash water in there, around 6am is perfect. the entrance is by the Democracy Monument side, you'll see a grate that's usually loose

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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