Do hotels in BKK charge during checkin or on checkout?

tbh it depends less on the hotel and more on how u book. walk in off the street and pay cash at checkout works at tons of smaller Thai-run places, but if you reserve thru agoda or booking they sometimes prepay or hold the first night. so skip the apps for this one and just call or walk in.

also worth knowing, a lot of places will ask to keep your passport as security if you're paying later. that's normal here, not a scam, but dont hand it over unless its actually the hotel front desk. soi rambuttri guesthouses do this all the time, no card needed.

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most places swipe ur card at checkin for the deposit but don't actually charge the room until u leave. so if ur card has nothing on it yet that can be a problem, they'll want some hold. the deposit usually runs 1000 to 2000 baht a night at mid range spots, more at the fancy ones on sukhumvit

if ur money is coming mid stay just book something small like a guesthouse around khaosan or a hostel private room, they often take cash at checkout with no hold at all. big chains like ibis or novotel will want the swipe upfront, no way around it

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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