Non-tourist cooking schools? If not, then best tourist cooking schools?

If you want proper depth, try Siam Thai Cookery School near Victory Monument. It's a tiny place run by an older couple who've been teaching for decades, and they'll actually take you to the market to pick your own ingredients first. Way less polished than the big places but way more real.

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Check out Krua In Thai on Sukhumvit 26. It's a small space that feels more like cooking with a friend than a class. They focus on technique and layering flavors rather than just handing you a recipe. I've taken their green curry class twice and got better each time.

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You've been here for years and you're just now asking this? Baipai is your best bet for something that's not just tourist bait. They actually make you do the curry paste from scratch on a stone mortar, which is the whole point if you want to get "good" at it

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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