Tax refund - allowed to.opem the box before refund at the airport?

ngl it's fine but customs can ask to see the item so keep it in your hand luggage, not checked. the vat refund counter at suvarnabhumi is near row r at check-in, gate 5 or 6 i think. just make sure you have the yellow form and receipt ready before you queue

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yeah you can open stuff, they don't really care about that at the customs counter. just make sure you have the yellow form (pp10) stamped before you check in your bags at the vat refund office near gate 4-6 on the departures level. the cash payout is upstairs past immigration near the gates, they might ask to see the items but it's usually a quick glance

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opening is fine, they're more concerned with the form matching the receipt than the box being sealed. just a heads up though - if you're flying out of don muang instead of bkk, the refund counter is near gate 2 in the domestic terminal before you go through to international, and it closes pretty early around 8pm. i've seen people miss it because they assumed it was open 24hrs like the main ones

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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