Do I have to go through immigration to get a reentry permit at the airport?

yeah the other replies are right but just to clarify the timing a bit - you land at suvarnabhumi on the 1st, clear immigration, and you're in the arrivals hall. the reentry permit counter is in the departures area past security, so you'd have to go back up to the check-in floor and find it. not really doable on arrival without a boarding pass for another flight same day.

fwiw the counter is near gate c on the left side, same floor as the departure gates. costs 1,000 baht for single entry. they take cash only and it's usually not crowded on weekend mornings. takes like 5 mins if u have a photo already.

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You actually need to be past immigration to get the reentry permit. The counter is inside the departure area, near the airport tax refund desks on the way to the gates. So you cannot do it when you land on the 1st. You'll have to go through immigration for your Singapore trip, then find the reentry permit office before you clear security for Taiwan. It's on the left side of the terminal near row C, takes about 10 minutes if it's not busy.

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Immigration counters are the only place that stamps you out, so you have to go through them before you can get to that reentry permit desk. The desk is past the passport control booths but not past security.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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