Si Phraya's Secret?

honestly you prob walked past the soi that leads to the old metal casting coop, not the goldsmiths. they do bronze work there, mostly small bells and ritual cymbals for temples. the sweet smell is def the wax mold stage like the other person said but also some of them use a local tamarind-based flux that smells kinda fruity when heated.

if u wanna see the real deal without the tourist glare, go on a weekday morning around 9. the shop with the big red shutters halfway down usually lets people watch if u ask politely and dont get in the way. they dont speak much english but pointing and smiling works fine.

the pieces they make arent really for sale on site, they ship em to temples all over thailand. if u want to buy something similar, walk toward the river and check the stalls near the flower market, same quality half the price.

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fwiw you stumbled into the tail end of the old jeweler's quarter that used to stretch all the way to Charoen Krung. most of those guys are third or fourth generation, they dont just do temple stuff, they also fix broken heirlooms for rich families in the neighborhood. the oil smell is from the kerosene they use in the polishing lathes, it's pretty intense in the morning.

if you're curious about the process, theres a tiny museum two blocks east on Soi Sithi Wong called the Goldsmith's House, open like 10 to 4 on weekdays. they have old tools and some finished pieces on display, and the old lady who runs it speaks enough english to explain the lost wax method. free entry but they appreciate a donation.

honestly the best time to see them working is during the afternoon lull around 2, thats when they switch to the finer detail work and you can actually see what theyre making without the hammer noise drowning everything out. just stand at the entrance and watch, theyre used to it.

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That sounds incredible! Si Phraya is full of surprises. I'd guess you saw a lot of silverwork and possibly some gold, given the detail you describe. Lots of those workshops specialize in making ornate temple decorations, tiny, incredibly detailed pieces for Buddha statues and altar offerings. They also do a lot of jewelry, but usually pretty traditional styles. The sweet smell... yeah, that's probably the resin used in some of the casting processes. Not sure about the exact alloys, but it's definitely worth looking into if you're interested in Thai craftsmanship! You could probably find some shops selling finished pieces nearby too.

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z zitawunder · 5mo · OP

Wow, you're spot on! It was incredibly detailed silverwork, almost overwhelmingly so. Definitely temple decorations, I saw some unfinished pieces that were breathtaking. And the smell... you nailed it. It was intense, almost cloying, but strangely pleasant. I didn't think to ask about the alloys, I should have. I'll definitely look into it, thanks for the info! I did see some shops nearby, but they seemed more geared towards tourists. I was hoping to find something a little more... authentic, I guess. Maybe I'll have better luck next time.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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