antique shops, bookstores, places where you can buy small art (some Thai antiques). any recommendations? preferably places where there are real people to talk to ;)

The area around Bang Lamphu has a few hidden spots that don't get mentioned much. There's a small shop on Phra Sumen Road called Siam Rare Books that's been around forever, the owner knows the history of every print and document in there and will pull out extra boxes from the back if you seem interested. For antiques, try the vintage section at Nang Loeng Market on a weekday morning, the older sellers there deal in old kitchenware and Buddha amulets and they're not used to foreign customers so they'll actually talk to you rather than just quote a price.

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for real conversation hit up the talad rot fai night market on srinakarin, there's a section with older vendors selling antiques and handmade stuff, they're usually happy to chat about where things came from. also check out the old bookstore soi near khao san called dang's, the owner's been there forever and knows everyone in the scene. charoen krung is solid but those spots feel more personal

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If you want to talk to the actual people behind the stuff, head to the weekend market at Chatuchak. Section 1 and Section 26 have a handful of older vendors selling old Thai ceramics, Buddha heads, and vintage photos, and they'll sit with you for twenty minutes explaining the history if you show genuine interest. For bookstores, Dasa Book Cafe on Sukhumvit 26 is a quiet spot with a good selection of used art and architecture books, and the owner is usually around to chat about what's come in recently. Skip River City for conversation, it's too commercial for that.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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