Which part or neighborhood is best to live in your opinion and why?

try phra khanong, it's got that same messy street life energy but feels more lived-in than touristy. the area around w district and the old market has vendors selling grilled meat and sticky rice next to vintage shops and vinyl bars. you can hop on the bts to get anywhere but it still feels like a real neighborhood where people are just going about their day, plus the rent is way cheaper than ari or bang rak

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honestly if you like the chaos of Phra Nakhon but want something a bit more livable long term, check out Bang Rak or Talat Noi. they've got that same old school Bangkok feel with narrow sois and street food everywhere, but way less touristy than Khao San. I lived near Charoen Krung for a year and loved how you can walk to the river for a 15 baht ferry, stumble into random jazz bars, and still find proper local coffee shops that aren't just catering to backpackers. Bang Rak especially has this gritty charm with the morning market and the old shophouses, plus the BTS is close enough if you need to escape to Sukhumvit for something modern.

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imo you should check out Ari if you like the mix of local and unexpected stuff. it's not as raw as Phra Nakhon but way more interesting than Sukhumvit's mall vibe. there's this little soi with a 50 year old noodle shop next to a craft beer bar that plays vinyl records on Sundays. rent's cheaper than Thong Lo too, you can get a decent studio for like 8-10k a month if you look around the smaller sois off Phahon Yothin. the BTS is right there but the neighborhood still feels like actual Bangkok, not a sanitized expat bubble.

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Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but I've always found their som tam a bit tame on the pla ra. If you want the real funky version, try the shophouse spots along Soi Udomsuk 26, near the night market end. They pound it fresh with fermented fish that'll clear your sinuses, and it's like 60 baht. Different style from the On Nut places, more Lao-leaning.

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for som tam specifically i'd say the Isaan spots in Chatuchak are underrated, weekdays only though since the weekend crowd ruins the vibe. there's a stall near gate 2 that does tam pa with fermented bamboo shoots, super sour and funky, not something you see much in On Nut. if you're already heading north for Or Tor Kor anyway its worth the detour.

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honestly the som tam at Krua Dok Mai Kao is good but what got me hooked is their nam prik pla raa dip with the raw veggies, that funk hits way harder than the papaya does. think most people sleep on it cuz they just order the som tam and gai yang. also pro tip, go before noon on weekdays, after that teh pla ra gets milder cuz they batch it for the lunch rush

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