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Khlong Toei, Rama 9/North Sukhumvit-ish, best veggie/farmer's markets?
In particular I'm interested in finding some different cultivars of amaranth leaves (not the grain, but also the grain if they have it, I can order that on Lazada et al), or ใบผักโขม in Thai, according to Google translate.
BONUS ANSWER: Been here some months, I speak barely enough Thai to maybe handle the market bargaining and such... Plan is to both expand my food horizons while mildly annoying veggie stand people by asking about food names. I'm mostly looking for the market where I can go do that. Amaranth leaves would be nice, but that's only one step on my journey.
Thanks in advance. (Edited for typos.)
there's a solid morning market at khlong toei soi 1, it's a proper wet market not a tourist thing. they've got a few stalls with local veg including some older ladies who grow stuff themselves, you'll find amaranth leaves there but maybe not fancy cultivars. for organic specialty stuff, the rama 9 farmers market at jj green on thursdays is decent but it's more prepared food and pricey veg, not really a dirt cheap local vibe.
if you want to practice thai and find weird veg, try the talad rot fai at srinakarin on weekends. it's a bit of a trek from your hood but the produce section has stuff from upcountry you won't see in supermarkets, plus the sellers are used to farang poking around. just point and ask "an ee arai" when you see something unfamiliar, they'll usually crack a smile and tell you.
another spot worth hitting is the or tor kor market at chatuchak, it's a bit of a hike from your area but worth the trip for the sheer variety of greens including multiple kinds of ผักโขม that you won't find in khlong toei. they've got a section dedicated to organic produce with signs in thai and english, and the vendors there are used to questions from food nerds
if you want something closer, the rama 9 soi 17 morning market is small but has some older ladies selling foraged local herbs and wild greens that the supermarkets don't stock. go before 8am or they'll be packed up and gone
for the amaranth specifically, the or tor kor market has at least 3-4 different cultivars on any given day, the purple stemmed one is what most thai recipes call for but they'll have the green ones too if you ask for ผักโขมขาว
for the specific amaranth leaf hunt, check out the or tor kor market near chatuchak on weekends, it's the gold standard for unusual produce in bangkok. the farmers there bring stuff from all over thailand, and i've seen three or four different types of ผักโขม there including the red-stemmed one that's hard to find elsewhere. it's a 15 minute bts ride from phra khanong then a short walk, totally doable from your hood
if you want something closer, the little morning market under the expressway at pratunam has a surprising selection of local greens, just go before 8am when it's still busy. the vendors there are older and patient, perfect for practicing your thai veg vocab without feeling rushed
best som tam in Bangkok? Krua Dok Mai Kao 2026
yeah Krua Dok Mai Kao is solid but if you're up for a detour, try Som Tum Nua near Siam Square. their som tam pu pla ra is insane if you like the fermented fish sauce kick. way more pungent than the On Nut spot, just less grilled chicken options