The shift is real but it's more about economics than any anti-American sentiment. Hagwon owners in Gangnam and Hongdae have told me they can get experienced South African teachers for about 2.1 million won instead of the 2.5 million an American with similar credentials would ask for. That 400,000 won difference per teacher adds up fast when you're running a chain of five academies.

I've noticed more British and Irish accents too, especially in the private academies around Apgujeong. The EPIK program still has plenty of Americans but the days of walking into a job with just a pulse and a passport are over. You need at least a 120-hour TEFL cert and preferably some classroom experience now, regardless of where you're from.

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You're right that the mix has shifted, but I wouldn't say Americans are being pushed out. The South African and British teacher presence has grown a lot in the last five years or so, especially in public school programs like EPIK. Most hagwon owners I know just want a native speaker with a clean accent, and South Africans fit that bill for a lower salary demand.

The pay you mentioned is about right for a standard public school contract, but it's actually closer to 2.3 to 2.5 million won now, not 2000 USD. That's still around 1800-1900 USD with the current exchange rate, so it's tighter than it used to be. A lot of Americans I know who left for China or Vietnam did it because the savings potential is better there, not because Korea kicked them out.

The dating angle is a whole separate thing, and honestly, that's not really a factor in hiring decisions. If you're thinking about coming over, just know the competition is stiffer and you'll want a TEFL certificate and some experience to stand out.

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honestly the dating thing you mentioned is kinda outdated and a bit cringey. most foreign teachers i know are in serious relationships or married now, the whole "unlimited dates" thing was more of a 2010-era meme.

but yeah the south african shift is real. i work at a hagwon in mokdong and half our staff is from durban now. schools love them because they'll sign on for 2.1 million won without negotiating, whereas americans usually try to haggle up to 2.4 or 2.5. the cost difference per teacher is about 300-400k won a month, which adds up when you're running multiple branches.

the bigger picture is that korea's english education market is shrinking tbh. birth rates are in the toilet so there's fewer kids enrolling, and the ones who do study are going to big franchise hagwons like cheda or chungdahm. those places hire based on test scores and teaching ability, not just being a native speaker. if you're american and want to teach here, you'll still get hired but expect to start in a smaller city like wonju or cheonan, not seoul.

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honestly this is a really good base itinerary, i've lived here for a few years and i'd tweak a couple things based on actual experience

for day 1, if you're doing gyeongbokgung and bukchon, you're gonna be walking a lot. the ground in bukchon is uneven and those hanok alleys have steep stairs. wear actual walking shoes not cute sneakers. i made that mistake once and my feet were done by 2pm

the gwangjang market rec is spot on but go to the second floor if you want a seat. the first floor stalls are packed and people hover over your shoulder while you eat. there's a little spot up the stairs called mayak kimbap that does the tiny seaweed rolls for like 3,000 won and they're addictive

for day 2, coex mall is fine but honestly the starfield library is just a photo op. if you're there anyway, the coex aquarium is actually pretty good and not as crowded as the main tourist ones. 30,000 won entry but the mermaid show at 2pm is surprisingly fun

namsan tower at night is nice but the cable car line can be 40 minutes on weekends. if you're fit, hike up from the namsan park entrance near hankook university of foreign studies. takes about 25 minutes and you skip the queue entirely. free too

one thing nobody mentions is that the

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tbh this is a really well put together guide, the neighborhood grouping thing is key. one thing i'd add is that the t-money card works for the airport express too, but you have to tap separately at the all stop train gate vs the express one. saves you buying a separate ticket if you're coming from incheon

for day 1, if gyeongbokgung is closed on a tuesday, swap it for changdeokgung instead. it's a 10 minute walk east and the secret garden tour there is 8,000 won extra but totally worth it. the huijeongdang pavilion has this quiet courtyard that feels like a different century compared to the main palace crowds

day 3's itaewon rec is solid but for a more local nightlife vibe, head to haebangchon just up the hill. it's the same neighborhood basically but less touristy bars and more rooftops with a view of namsan. the fried chicken at a place called bbq chicken near the hbc church is my go-to after a long hike

one thing the guide left out is that most cafes in hongdae and insadong have a free refill policy on americanos if you ask. just bring the receipt back to the counter, saves you like 5,000 won per cup

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solid guide, one thing that always trips people up is the subway exit situation. some of the bigger stations like gangnam or hongdae have like 8 or 9 exits and they can be a 5 minute walk apart underground. i usually screenshot the exit number from naver map before i go up because guessing wrong means walking an extra block in the wrong direction above ground

for your day 2, if you are at coex anyway, skip the mall food court and walk over to samseong station exit 5. there is a little alley with three spots that do soondae and dukbokki for like 4,000 won. the older lady at the middle cart has been there for years and her sauce is way better than the tourist spots in myeongdong

the banpo bridge show is nice but honestly the view from the pedestrian bridge right next to it is just as good and way less crowded. just walk up the stairs at the sebitseom island end and you get the same water light thing without the crowd pushing for a photo

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