nice write up, it covers a lot of ground. one thing i'd add is that the best boyoz in the city is actually at a tiny place called boyozcu kemal in the kemeralti backstreets, not dostlar. it's on 853 sokak, no sign really, just a queue of old guys at 8am. they do a version with tahini that's insane, like 8 tl each, and you eat it standing up with a paper napkin

for a proper late night move, skip the kokorec carts and head to midyeci ahmet on 1446 sokak in alsancak. he opens around 11pm and does midye dolma with garlic yogurt on top, which u dont see much. 6 tl each but theyre huge, three fill you up. he's got a little plastic table setup on the sidewalk, perfect after drinking

also the guide mentions çöp şiş in bornova but honestly the best one is at a place called şişçi hüseyin on 214 sokak in karşıyaka. take the ferry over, it's 10 minutes from alsancak. the meat is marinated in tomato paste and pepper, comes out on a wooden board with grilled peppers and onions, 70 tl for a generous portion. the view of the bay from the ferry alone is worth the trip

arrow_drop_up 5 arrow_drop_down

chat_bubble Reply ios_share

/

Reply

solid write-up, the seafood section is spot on. if you're at the kordon, skip the big tourist places and walk a bit further south to sarnıç balıkçısı on 1593 sokak, it's a tiny family spot that does a killer balık ekmek for like 40 tl and they grill it right there on the sidewalk. the meze plate is smaller than deniz but fresher, and you're sitting on plastic stools watching the ferries go by.

one thing missing is the kokoreç scene, there's a guy named mustafa who sets up a cart on 1440 sokak near the alsancak tram stop around 10pm, wraps it in half a bread with tomatoes and oregano for 20 tl. it's greasy and perfect after a few beers, just don't think about what's in it

for the midye dolma, the stalls near konak pier are fine but the ones at the kemeralti entrance on anafartalar caddesi are better, they're stuffed fuller and the lemon is always fresh. around 5 tl each still, yeah

arrow_drop_up 3 arrow_drop_down

chat_bubble Reply ios_share

/

Reply

can't believe the guide didn't mention çiğ köfte from the original guys in kemeralti. there's a tiny shop called çiğ köfteci hasan near the kızlarağası hanı that's been around forever, they do the wrap with lettuce and pomegranate molasses for like 15 tl. way better than the chain places.

also for the kumru, kumrucu hikmet is solid but i actually prefer the one at kumrucu şevki on kıbrıs şehitleri a few blocks down. same price but they toast the bread longer so it's crunchier and the sucuk gets that perfect crispy edge. just my two cents though.

the boyoz at dostlar is legit, get it with a side of their fresh ayran to cut through the butter. and if you're near there early morning they have a second batch around 9am that's hot out the oven, worth waiting for

arrow_drop_up 2 arrow_drop_down

chat_bubble Reply ios_share

/

Reply

if you're up for a longer day, take the dolmuş from basmane to bergama for the acropolis and asklepion. it's a couple hours each way but the ruins are way less crowded than ephesus and the cable car up to the acropolis gives you this massive view over the plain. the archaeological museum in town is small but has some incredible stuff from the pergamon altar excavations, definitely worth the 30 lira or whatever it is now

arrow_drop_up 16 arrow_drop_down

chat_bubble Reply ios_share

/

Reply

ephesus is the obvious one and yeah it's easy, just grab the train from basmane to selcuk and you're there in about an hour. but honestly i'd skip sirince on a day trip, it's cute but kinda touristy and packed with wine tasters. instead take the ferry to alaçatı from üçkuyular, it's a nice boat ride and you can walk around the stone houses and have lunch, just check the ferry times cause they're not super frequent. if u want something more chill, go to foça, it's a bus from the otogar and has this old harbor with seals sometimes

arrow_drop_up 14 arrow_drop_down

chat_bubble Reply ios_share

/

Reply

honestly if you want a proper change of pace, head to çeşme on the dolmuş from üçkuyular, it's about an hour and a half and you get that whole aegean coast vibe without the tourist crush of alaçatı. the castle there is small but free and you can walk down to the marina for some fresh fish, just avoid the places right on the main square they're overpriced. the bus back to izmir runs late so you can catch the sunset over the water before heading home

arrow_drop_up 2 arrow_drop_down

chat_bubble Reply ios_share

/

Reply