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Hyakuninchō's Hidden Lanes?
Hyakuninchō is a trip! It's seriously like stepping into another world. Getting lost is half the fun, honestly. Don't worry too much about a map; just wander. You'll stumble on amazing stuff.
I remember finding this tiny little ramen shop, seriously tiny, maybe four seats at the counter, tucked down a side street so narrow, two people couldn't walk abreast. The ramen was unlike anything I'd ever had; super rich broth, perfectly cooked noodles. It was totally unassuming, no fancy signage, just a handwritten menu. That's the magic of Hyakuninchō.
Also, keep your eyes peeled for little craft shops, some sell these amazing handmade ceramics, others have the coolest vintage clothing. Just let yourself explore and see what you find. You won't regret it. It's all about the journey, not the destination in Hyakuninchō.
honestly just follow your nose and the sound of clanking glasses. on the main drag near the station there's this izakaya called Uomaru, no sign in English, just a red lantern and a fish tank in the window. they do an amazing grilled mackerel and the owner's a grumpy old dude who'll warm up if you order in Japanese. the lane it's on, it's so narrow you can almost touch both walls, leads to a tiny public bath that's been there since the 60s.
fwiw the best time to go is late afternoon when the light filters through the laundry hanging between buildings. you'll see old ladies tending their potted plants and cats sleeping on mailboxes. that's the real Hyakuninchō, not the shops but the everyday life spilling out onto the streets. just don't take photos of people without asking, it's a residential area and they value their privacy.
Yeah, getting lost is kind of the point there. If you want something specific, look for a tiny soba place called Yamachō, it's near the shrine and has no English sign, just a noren curtain with their name on it.
Where can I find crispy, pan-fried bacon similar to a certain international style?
if u have a costco membership the kirkland thick cut is the move, 4 packs of 500g for around 2500 yen and it crisps up proper in a cold pan. for smaller runs, precce in azabudai hills & the basement at isetan shinjuku both carry imported US & danish brands in the chilled case, just read the label for "thick cut" or "smoked" and not "loin". also worth knowing japanese bacon is often wet-cured so pat it dry before frying or it steams instead of crisping
kaldi coffee farm is hit or miss but their smoked bacon from denmark shows up pretty regular, the 200g pack runs about 600 yen. what actually works better for me is asking the butcher counter at peacock or life to slice the block bacon thick, like 5mm, they do it for free and it crisps way better than the pre-packed stuff. also fwiw cheap bacon crisps faster, the fatty supermarket kind at 300 yen a pack works fine if u cook it from cold in a dry pan and pour off the fat as it renders.
tbh the gyomu super store brand bacon is surprisingly decent for crisping up, its not thick cut but if you cook it low and slow it gets pretty crunchy. the key is the dry cure vs wet cure thing, wet cure steams. also check hanamasa if you have one nearby, they sell big packs of american style bacon thats actually smoked and firm.
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