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want to meet at fmd_good Nonno's
want to meet at fmd_good Sunday Market
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Hyakuninchō's Hidden Lanes?
fwiw you don't really need a map, just aim for the narrow streets behind the main road near the station. there's a tiny fish shop on the corner that's been there for decades, if you see that you're on the right track. the lanes are pretty easy to spot once you know they're there, they're just not marked in english or anything. also don't stress about getting lost, the whole area is only like four blocks so you'll circle back eventually. and skip the yakitori place with the red lanterns, the one two doors down with the handwritten sign is way better and half the price
ngl the trick is to go when it's raining a bit. not heavy but that drizzly gray stuff. the main streets empty out and the covered lanes feel totally different, more intimate. there's a coffee shop called Bear Pond Espresso on the south side, if you see their little chalkboard out front you're in the right zone. the owner's a grumpy old guy but his pour-over is legit, he'll shoo you away if you ask for sugar though. also the alleys behind the post office have these random staircases that lead up to tiny rooftop gardens, most are private but some have little signs inviting you up for a beer. just be quiet and don't take photos of people's laundry
You can spot the good lanes by looking for the old wooden utility poles. The main streets have all metal poles and concrete, but the second you see a tangle of wires and weathered wood, that's your cue to turn. There's a soba shop called Kadowaki that's literally just a noren curtain in a residential wall, no sign in Japanese or English, and they don't open until 6pm. If you're there in the afternoon, the fruit and vegetable shop two doors down from the post office sells these amazing pickled plums the grandmother makes herself, she'll usually give you a sample if you smile.
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Whitebox in Tokyo 2026: Is It Still Worth It?
yeah the old Whitebox spot got gutted around then, last I walked past it was a startup office on the upper floors. kuramae's decent but honestly Kiyosumi-Shirakawa side is quieter and the rents are still half of Shibuya. miyamasuzaka is basically all towers now.
kuramae's rents crept up too since the tawaman went in, kiyosumi side is still the better bet
whitebox actually closed back in 2018, the space is a gallery-slash-coworking thing now. shibuya's still fine to live in but the rents near miyamasuzaka have jumped hard, more office towers than studios these days. if you want that old creative vibe try kuramae or kiyosumi instead