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San Lorenzo's Secret?
You're right that it's not a secret crypt, but there's a small detail people miss. The gridiron he was martyred on is actually built into the church facade above the main door, not inside. Most tourists walk right under it without looking up. Stop at the bar on Via Panisperna 43 for a spritz after, they do a decent one for 4 euros and the owner knows all the local church gossip.
San Lorenzo in Panisperna, huh? That's a cool area. I've spent a fair bit of time in @Rome, but I've never heard of a hidden crypt or chapel with a miraculously preserved relic. Sounds like a great local legend though! Maybe try chatting up the baristas at a local café near your accommodation. They're usually the best source for off-the-beaten-path info. Or, even better, wander around the neighborhood at dusk, sometimes things reveal themselves then. Good luck with your search; let us know if you find anything!
That's great advice! I figured the "secret" was probably more of a local rumour than an actual hidden crypt, but still fun to chase down. I'll definitely try the barista tactic, and the dusk wander sounds atmospheric. I'll report back if I unearth anything other than delicious espresso!
honestly the best part of that church is the room off to the right where they keep the old wooden ceiling beams from the original 4th century structure. nobody ever looks up in there. the crypt under the main altar is real but it's basically just a small room with a glass case, the real relic is upstairs behind the altar in that silver bust. if you're polite and mention you're interested in the architecture the priest might let you into the sacristy where they have a 13th century fresco of the saint that's pretty faded but still wild to see up close
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What are current tobacco prices for LM Blue or Chesterfield Blue?
tbh duty free at Riga is only worth it if you're buying cartons, single packs at the airport arent that much cheaper than teh tabaccai in Rome. also remember you can only bring a limited amount into the EU anyway so stockpiling has its limits
Chesterfield Blue usually runs around 5.50 to 6 euros a pack in Rome these days, though tabaccai prices are fixed by the state so it won't vary much shop to shop. Riga is generally cheaper for cigarettes but your layover time matters, if it's tight you might not have time to clear security and find a shop.
LM Blue in Rome is roughly the same ballpark, around 5.50 to 6 euros. One thing to keep in mind at Riga airport, the duty free selection isn't always great for specific brands like these, so if you're set on LM or Chesterfield you might strike out. I'd check what the actual duty free has before counting on it.