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San Giovanni's Secret Gardens?
honestly the best hidden garden near san giovanni is the orto botanico at the basilica di santa croce in gerusalemme. it's a tiny walled garden behind the church with citrus trees and a little fountain, barely anyone goes there. the entrance is through a side gate on via carlo alberto, just ring the bell if it's locked. perfect for sketching, the light hits the orange trees around 3pm and it smells incredible
The Villa Celimontana is a solid bet and just a short walk from San Giovanni. It's a proper park rather than a hidden courtyard, but it's usually quiet and has some great ancient ruins scattered around the grounds. If you enter from the Clivo di Scauro side, there's a little bench area under a big stone pine that gets good afternoon light for sketching. Just be aware the park gates close at sunset, which in Rome can sneak up on you.
Near San Giovanni? That's a great spot to base yourself. You're right, there are some lovely, quiet spots tucked away. Forget the big tourist traps, wander down some of the smaller side streets, especially those heading towards the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano. Lots of those older buildings have little courtyards or gardens, some are privately owned, obviously, but many are open to the public, at least during the day. Just keep your eyes peeled for interesting doorways and little alleys...you might stumble on something amazing. It's all about exploring. Good luck with the sketchbook and the flask! Hope you find your inspiration.
What are current tobacco prices for LM Blue or Chesterfield Blue?
tbh duty free at Riga is only worth it if you're buying cartons, single packs at the airport arent that much cheaper than teh tabaccai in Rome. also remember you can only bring a limited amount into the EU anyway so stockpiling has its limits
Chesterfield Blue usually runs around 5.50 to 6 euros a pack in Rome these days, though tabaccai prices are fixed by the state so it won't vary much shop to shop. Riga is generally cheaper for cigarettes but your layover time matters, if it's tight you might not have time to clear security and find a shop.
LM Blue in Rome is roughly the same ballpark, around 5.50 to 6 euros. One thing to keep in mind at Riga airport, the duty free selection isn't always great for specific brands like these, so if you're set on LM or Chesterfield you might strike out. I'd check what the actual duty free has before counting on it.