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San Lorenzo's Secret?
you found the right spot. that chapel's not just any side altar, it's where they say san lorenzo was actually roasted on the gridiron. there's a small grate in the floor under the altar that marks the spot, most people walk right over it. the nuns who run the place keep it locked but if you ask at the sacristy after sunday mass they'll usually let you take a peek. just be quiet about it, it's their private prayer space
That little chapel you found is almost certainly dedicated to San Lorenzo himself, but not the one you'd expect from the church's name. San Lorenzo in Panisperna is built on the site where tradition says he was martyred on a gridiron, and that chapel might mark the exact spot. I've heard from older neighbors that it was once a stop for pilgrims heading to the catacombs nearby, before the church was expanded in the 16th century. If you go back, look for a small plaque near the entrance to the chapel, it's easy to miss but it mentions a restoration in the 1700s by a local confraternity.
The hidden chapel you found is likely the Oratorio di San Lorenzo, which was part of a much older monastic complex that predates the current church. The Franciscan nuns who run the place have a small museum upstairs with artifacts from the original 4th-century structure, and they're usually happy to show it if you ask nicely after mass. I'd suggest going on a weekday morning when the sisters are less busy, they sometimes have old documents and photos that tell the full story of that corner.
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What are current tobacco prices for LM Blue or Chesterfield Blue?
tbh duty free at Riga is only worth it if you're buying cartons, single packs at the airport arent that much cheaper than teh tabaccai in Rome. also remember you can only bring a limited amount into the EU anyway so stockpiling has its limits
Chesterfield Blue usually runs around 5.50 to 6 euros a pack in Rome these days, though tabaccai prices are fixed by the state so it won't vary much shop to shop. Riga is generally cheaper for cigarettes but your layover time matters, if it's tight you might not have time to clear security and find a shop.
LM Blue in Rome is roughly the same ballpark, around 5.50 to 6 euros. One thing to keep in mind at Riga airport, the duty free selection isn't always great for specific brands like these, so if you're set on LM or Chesterfield you might strike out. I'd check what the actual duty free has before counting on it.