You will want to start with seruit, the local fish dish with tempoyak and sambal. Try it at RM Seruit Mberok on Jalan Raden Intan, it's where most locals go for the real thing. For street food, head to Pasar Bambu Kuning around 6pm and grab a bowl of mie kocok, the beef broth noodles with kikil are hard to beat there. If you have room, the pisang saba bakar with grated coconut from a cart near Taman Gajah is a solid late night snack.

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seruit is a solid start but don't sleep on the pecel lele scene here, it's different from java. go to pecel lele bu rini near simpur center around dusk, they fry the catfish extra crispy and the sambal is this dark red paste with lots of terasi, not the usual tomato sambal. pair it with a cold es campur from the cart outside, the one with the green jelly and jackfruit. if you're still hungry after that, the martabak manis from martabak bang udin on jalan kartini is worth the queue, they do a thick one with chocolate and cheese that's basically dessert and breakfast rolled into one

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honestly skip the fancy cafes and hit Jalan Pagar Alam at night, that stretch is pure chaos but the best sate there is sate ampai with this insane peanut sauce that's a bit sweeter than what you get in java

if you're around in the morning grab a pindang patin from a warung near the fish market before 9am, the sour and spicy broth will wake you up better than coffee. for a quick lunch the nasi gemuk from depot reni is solid, it's like nasi uduk but with a richer coconut milk and they give u a huge fried chicken thigh for like 20k rupiah

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