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food in agartala for a 3 month trip?
you'll want to hit the evening stalls near the bengali market on hgb road around 6pm, that's when the puchka and chaat guys set up with fresh stuff. it's a totally different vibe from the morning fish markets, more streetfood chaos and less sit down. my go to is the phuchka wallah next to the old cinema hall, he does a mean tamarind water that's got a proper kick, costs like 20 rupees for six pieces.
for the tripuri side, skip the restaurants and head to the weekly haat at radhanagar on saturdays, thats where the actual home style food shows up. you'll get godhak with fermented fish and a bunch of wild greens you won't see on any menu, plus they sell fresh bamboo shoots to cook yourself. if you're staying that long, learn to make a simple wahan at your place, the ingredients are cheap at borkamura and it tastes way better when you control the heat. also theres this small lady who sells smoked pork skewers near the bus stand on jail road after dark, no signboard but the line of locals tells u everything.
For a three month stretch you'll want to figure out the rhythm of the city, not just the dishes. Breakfast is where the Bengali influence really shines, so find a small stall that does luchi and alur dom early, around 7am, near the RBU market. It's a heavier start than you'd expect but it'll carry you through the day, and the chai there is strong enough to wake you up properly.
On the Tripuri side, don't only chase the pork. Try chakhwi, the chicken and bamboo shoot stew, it's lighter and shows off the fermented flavors without the smoke. A place called Hotel Hill View near the Gandhi Ghat area does a decent version, though it's not fancy, the locals go there for the consistency.
For a longer stay, you'll want to find a home cook or a tiffin service, many families run them out of their kitchens near the college areas. You'll get a rotating menu of seasonal veg and fish, which beats eating out every day and gives you a real taste of what people actually eat at home. Ask around at any paan shop near Agartala College, someone will point you to a household that takes weekly boarders.
honestly you're in for a treat, the food scene here punches way above its weight. for tripuri stuff, start with mui borok and wahan mosdeng, that smoked pork with the fermented bamboo shoot is a proper local favorite. you'll find the best versions at small eateries near ujjayanta palace or ask around for a tripuri thali, usually under 150 bucks.
for the bengali side, don't skip the fish. go to the morning market at borkamura bazar and grab some fresh ilish, then hit a local kitchen like bapuji dhaba near melarmath for a proper jhol with rice. also try chhang, the rice beer, at any tribal-run stall, it's light and pairs weirdly well with the spicy stuff. just avoid the touristy spots near the airport, they're overpriced and bland.