Honestly, the best spot isn't in Shapotou itself. Drive out to Tonghu Grassland, it's about 40 minutes west of town. The dunes there meet the Yellow River in a totally different way, less manicured, more wild. You can climb the big sand hill just past the entrance and get the river snaking through the desert with no crowds in the frame, especially around 4pm when the light goes golden.

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If you're up for an early start, head to Shapotou's sand slope right at sunrise. The light hitting the dunes and the Yellow River bend is incredible, and you'll avoid the midday crowds that show up around 10am. For something different, walk the old rope bridge across the river near the sand sliding area, you can frame the desert with the water and the ancient waterwheel in one shot. I'd skip the main tourist platform at the entrance and hike a little south along the riverbank instead, it's quieter and the reflections are better.

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fwiw, the old section of the city walls near the Drum Tower has a killer view at sunset. you can see the whole old town spread out with the desert mountains in the background, and the light hits the yellow river just south of there. also, there's a small temple garden by the riverbank on the east side that's super peaceful and good for those long exposure shots of the water

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